i went surfing for two hours on this night.
i was in the water while the sun was setting
and saw the full moon rise. came in, ate dindin,
did some work, got ready to get on the plane tomorrow.
went out to take a look at the sea and got shivers
when i saw how perfectly shaped the waves were.
so i went out again at midnight.
under a full moon, depth perception turns itself sideways,
most movement perception is relegated to a volume perception,
and all colors resolve their differences.
all you see are yawning monstrous holes opening up on the horizon,
and then a swarm of a thousand tiny dancing angels - the
reflections of the moon as the ripples snake up the face -
break out across the forehead of the wave and you
realize its right on top of you and you see the glimmering face
of the moon and at that point you're either committed
to swimming down the face or scooping out its stomach with the board.
either way there's no time to sit around and scratch your head
because it folds out of the night like a frank herbert
fucking nightmare. its all a matter of moving fast at
the last second. if that.
once you're on the wave there's not much opportunity to point
the board either, you have to ride with your feet instead of your eyes.
so the nose of the board drops down the face, you stand up, you grope
the wave with your toes and fingers and ears to find the
right angle, and all of heaven and earth splits apart
cause when you're on the face, and the spray is flipping
off the top, and the moon is behind it and the whole
thing is roaring like a locomotive from some other planet...
i cant remember anything as beautiful as that.
most of them were steep coiling lefts; 5-6' faces.
.. picture time.. these were lightened 25%.
anyway, these were some of the most elegant waves i've ever seen out here.
there's NO wind (i could make out reflections of the clouds on the surface)
- i mean it wasnt glassy,, it was like a fekkin mirror. the waves were ideal,
the night was clean, the ocean was silent, god was laughing, and for a while
i thought it would be just fine to die.
if you get the chance to swim under a full moon, do it.
you wont ever forget it.